Outer Mountain Loop – Big Bend NP

My friend Ken, his son Derek, and his grandson Alec made a trip to Big Bend to hike the classic “Outer Mountain Loop,” a 4-day, 3-night epic backpack journey across the high trails of the Chisos Mountains, down into the high desert south of the Chisos, and finishing at the trail up Juniper Canyon and back into the high Chisos. At least, that was the plan…until a 1300+ acre fire in the high Chisos complex shut down all hiking and camping on the central and eastern sections of the mountains. With the trail closures, we opted to cut the trip a day short and do the hike without the return across the mountains.

Ken, Alec and Derek at the trailhead in the Basin area of the Chisos Mountains. The Laguna Meadow Trail, and connecting Blue Creek Trail, were not affected by the fire, so the first day (and second day) were as originally planned.

Ken, Alec and Derek at the Trailhead

Trail through the red igneous “dikes” from the high Chisos, down Blue Creek Canyon to Homer Wilson Ranch.

Line cabin of the Homer Wilson Ranch at the location of camp #1.

Greater Earless Lizard watches as we pass by.

Turks Head Cactus in full double bloom along the trail.

After a dry spring, a recent rain rewarded us with a plethora of blooming cactus, such as this Strawberry Pitaya (Hedgehog).

Campsite a quarter mile east of the historic Homer Wilson Ranch line cabin.

Beautiful setting of blooming Cane Cholla and Strawberry Pitaya on the trail between Homer Wilson and the spring at Fresno Creek, about 7 miles east of camp.

A look back down the switchbacks of the Dodson Trail at the first saddle, at about 5,000′ altitude (a climb of about 900′ above our campsite).

Engelmann Pricklypear cactus in bloom along the trail.

The landmark “Elephant Tusk” as seen from the Dodson Trail just before we drop down into the Fresno Creek drainage.

The water flowing through the Fresno Creek bedrock is welcome to hot and tired backpackers Ken and Derek, as well as another very rare pleasure…SHADE.

Ken admires a not-so-shy Garter Snake enjoying the cool water in the spring.

Campsite the second night out, at the foot of the Chisos Mountains, which rise to a height of 7400′ above our campsite at 4600′ altitude.

A beautiful night for stars, the Milky Way rises in the southeast after midnight above our camp.

The ruins of the Dodson Ranch, a homestead in this very rough and remote area where a family ranched sheep and goats before the creation of Big Bend NP in the late 1940’s.

Ken, Derek and Alec next to an Agave, or Century Plant, in full bloom below the southeast rim of the Chisos Mountains.

After our hike out to the Jeep at the Juniper Canyon trailhead on day 3, we made a short drive down to the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon, where the Rio Grande River cuts through a fault that resulted in a 1500′ uplift, creating the canyon (Mexico on the left, the US on the right, as you look upcanyon).

Our third night on the trail was a short hike into the “Taj Mahal Hoodoo,” where we spent a loud, wet and windy night with thunderstorms dancing all around. No stars this night.

A really large Ocotillo, in full leaf and bloom, near our campsite.

Typical sunset as seen through storm clouds in the Chihuahua Desert.

We had a great time wandering around together through the desert, an unusually cool trip for this time of the year. This Outer Mountain Loop is not for novice hikers, as it requires a lot of planning to insure adequate water for multiple people. Be sure to use the expertise of the Big Bend National Park staff in making plans for this trip.

Postscript:

Recently the great-grandaughter of the original homesteaders at the Dodson Ranch made comment regarding my photograph of the Dodson Ranch House ruin along the Outer Mountain Loop. She said that she was unable to visit the site, but enjoyed seeing photographs of what was left of the ranch. In that spirit, I am adding this post of a collection of photographs that I have made on multiple trips out to the old ranch ruins, beginning in 1985:

Remains of the ranch house located in the grove of trees created by a natural spring that drains the Chisos Mountains.

Remains of the stone ranch house are hidden up in a grove of trees.

In 1985 you could see the house from the trail. I camped close to the house site (red bear bag hanging in a tree).

When I first found the site, the walls were still mostly intact and the window frames still in place. I camped near the house, in clear violation of NPS regulations about camping near historic structures.

A brass bed frame remained in the house, along with utensils such as coffee pot and cups and food cans.

Remains of the stone fireplace.

Two tall center posts set into the walls supported a center beam that formed the roof support for the hip of the roof.

NPS sign marking the Dodson Spring that supplied water for the family and livestock. (Sign is now gone).

Remains of the house, with both center roof posts showing.

Remains of the horse corral behind the ranch house.